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Perfumes And EU Regulations
This document discusses the components, manufacturing processes, and psychological effects of perfumes, highlighting the distinction between natural attars and synthetic perfumes. It also outlines regulations regarding fragrance allergens and notes the health impacts associated with certain perfume ingredients. Additionally, it provides a comprehensive overview of different fragrance classifications and their applications in various products.
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Perfumes And EU Regulations
- 1. Prepared By: GuidedBy: NAME : Yatindra Bhadankar Dr.Swayamprakash Patel EN.ID : 18MPHTCH001 Associate Professor SUBJECT : Cosmetics and cosmeceuticals 1
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- 3. • Introduction • Notesin perfume • Classification • Sources of Fragrances • Manufacturing Process • Basic composition • Ingredients causing Allergic Reaction • EU Regulation • Adverse effects of perfumes 3
- 4. • Perfume isa mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent. • It is usually in liquid form and used to give a pleasant scent to a person's body. • The Word “Perfume” comes from the latin word “Per fume” which means “through smoke”. • Fragrances are among the oldest cosmetic products . • Perfumes may have been first use Egyptians using scented oil at least 5000 years ago, letter on followed by the ancient Chinese,Hindus,Arabs,Greeks,& Romans. 4
- 5. Basic Difference betweenPerfume & Attars Attar Perfumes Natural products Natural + Synthetic products No use of Alcohol Alcohol is used as solvent Essential oil is separated from flowers in a closed vessel. Separation process can be done in both open and closed vessel. Manufacturing = water distillation Manufacturing = steam distillation , solvent extraction , enfleurage etc. Long lasting Evaporation Evaporation faster than attar5
- 6. Basic Psychology ofusing Perfumes • When we inhale the odorant molecules of a perfume, it not only creates the sensation of odor but also creates emotions and experiences associated with it. For instance, we focus on the pleasant childhood memories associated with the smell of vanilla. • Stimulation of hippocampus causes secretion of growth hormone, sex hormone and neurotransmitters. • Another reason behind perfume use is to increase ones attractiveness in the eyes of other people. 6
- 7. Top Notes Middle Notes BaseNotes 7
- 8. TOP NOTES MIDDLENOTES (Heart NOTE) BASE NOTES Consists of small,light molecules with high volatility that evaporate quickly. Its main body of perfume Act to mask the unpleasant initial impression of BASE NOTES BASE NOTES Appear while middle notes are fading BASE NOTE BRING Depth & Solidity to a perfume E.g. Citrus(lemon ,orange),Light fruits(grapes , berries) E.g. Rose,lemon,nutmeg, E.g. sandal wood ,vanila,amber 8
- 9. • Based onConcentration of Fragrance & duration of lasting. Class % of Aromatic compound Duration (hours) Parfume 20-30 6-8 Eau de Parfume 15-20 4-5 Eau de toilette 5-15 2-3 Eau de cologne 2-4 2 Eau fraiche 1-3 2 9
- 10. • Based onNatural Sources 1. Bright floral : Fragrance from one or several flowers. E.g. Lily,Rose,Jasmine,Estee lauders beautiful. 2. Green : Fragrance from cut grass or leaf. E.g. calvin kleins Eternity. 3. Aquatic : A clean smell reminiscent of ocean. E.g. David off cool water. 4. Citrus : Has freshing effects. E.g. Faberge Bruf. 5. Fruity : Aromas of fruits other than citrus. E.g. Ginestet Botrytis 10
- 11. Plant Sources AnimalSources Synthetic Bark Flowers Blossom Fruits Resins Roots Seed Wood etc. Civet Honeycomb Deer musk Ambergris hyraceum Calone Terpenes Argumen Aldehyde Amber Amyris Calone 11
- 12. Perfumes can beManufactured by following steps Collection Extraction Blending Aging 12
- 13. • Perfumes aremainly composed of – 1.Essential oils: Derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and/or synthetic aromatic chemicals. E.g. limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral etc. 2. Fixatives: Natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate. E.g. benzyl benzoate, benzyl alcohol etc. 3. Solvents: The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water. Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and does not permit microbial growth in the perfume. 13
- 14. Ingredients Use Sideeffects Acetone Solvent Inhalation cause dryness of mouth & throat Ethyl Acetate Solvent Defatting effect on skin & may cause drying & cracking Benzyl alcohol Fixative Skin irritation ,redness ,pain Benzyl benzoate Fixative –sweet balsamic odor Skin irritation like- blisters Itching,redness. Sandalwood Fragrance Hypersensitivity 14
- 15. • In 1999,a set of 26 fragrance allergens with a well-recognised potential to cause allergy had been idenfentified, for which information should be provided to consumers about their presence in cosmetic products. • On this basis, the Cosmetics directive required that the presence any of these 26 substances be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products and 0.01 % in rinse-off products. • The SCCS opinion lists a number of individual substances and natural extracts considered as ‘established contact allergens in humans, ‘established contact allergens in animals’ or ‘likely contact allergens by combination of evidence’. The selection is made based on a comprehensive screen of available clinical and animal data, paired with computer-based SAR modeling where appropriate. 15
- 16. • From thefew population-based studies, it can be estimated that the frequency of contact allergy to fragrance ingredients in the general population in Europe is 1-3%. 16
- 17. What fragrance substancescan be classified as skin allergens? 17
- 18. SCCS opinion • Thepresent opinion by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) updates a 1999 opinion by the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP) using a systematic and critical review of the scientific literature to identify fragrance allergens, including natural extracts, relevant to consumers. • The evidence was evaluated according to clearly defined criteria and the substances were then categorized as (i) established contact allergens (in humans or animals), (ii) likely contact allergens or (iii) possible contact allergens. 18
- 19. Established Contact Allergens CategoryNumber of individual fragrances(Synthetic) Number of natural extracts. Lists of substances(Allergeens 0 Established in humans. 54 28 82 Established in animals. 18 1 19 Likely. 26 26 Possible. 35 13 48 19
- 20. Established in Human(major) SyntheticFragrances Natural fragrances AMYL CINNAMAL* EVERNIA FURFURACEA EXTRACT* AMYL CINNAMYL ALCOHOL* EVERNIA PRUNASTRI EXTRACT* AMYL SALICYLATE JASMINUM GRANDIFLORUM / OFFICINALE trans-ANETHOLE ANISE ALCOHOL* BENZALDEHYDE BENZYL ALCOHOL* BENZYL BENZOATE* BENZYL CINNAMATE* BENZYL SALICYLATE* BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL * 20
- 21. Established in Animals Syntheticfragrances. Natural Allyl phenoxyacetate Jasminum Sambac Flower CERA / Extract / Water p-tert. -Butyldihydrocinnamaldehyde CYCLAMEN ALDEHYDE Dibenzyl ether 2,3-DIHYDRO-2,2,6- TRIMETHYLBENZALDEHYDE trans-2-Hexenal 2-Hexylidene cyclopentanone HEXYL SALICYLATE p-Isobutyl-α-methyl hydrocinnamaldehdye 21
- 22. • Perfumes Usedin Industrialized Society • Household Products • Personal Products • Agricultural Products • Perfumes for Soaps • Synthetic Detergents • Perfumed Disinfectants • Incense and Fumigants • Perfumed Candles • Paints and Polishes • Other Household Products • Perfuming Lipstick and Nail Lacquer! • Hair Preparation Perfumes , Perfumed Aerosols 22
- 23. References: • Poucher’s Perfume,Cosmetics & Soap ,10th Edition ,Edited by Hildy Butler. • http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/ opinions_layman/perfume-allergies/en/about- perfume-allergies.htm#29 23
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- 26. Reference • cosmetri PerfumeAllergens Guide, Copyright cosmetri GmbH © 2015-2018. All rights reserved. 26
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