The Italian Dark Horse That Just Swept the UK’s Gnarliest Testpieces
22-year-old Pietro Vidi just had a jaw-dropping performance on the UK's notorious gritstone. Here's why we're so impressed.
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22-year-old Pietro Vidi just had a jaw-dropping performance on the UK's notorious gritstone. Here's why we're so impressed.
A good duffel ensures your kit stays dry, organized, and unmaimed by sloppy handling.
Accident patterns, safety tips, and rescue mythbusting with an alpine rescue expert of 12 years
One climber finds an unexpected truth while researching human factors in accidents for the American Alpine Club.
How a one-week trip to the Adirondacks awakened a part of me that I thought had died
A guide shares tips and expert geological insights on how climbers can mitigate the deadly hazard of rockfall.
Benjamin Védrines says his first ascent of Jannu East (24,501ft) with Nicolas Jean is more meaningful than any in his career.
A Utah climber rips three pieces from the top of a brand-new finger crack.
Everyone gets their rope stuck at some point. Internationally certified mountain guide Marc Chauvin recommends two solutions to help you solve most stuck rappels.
When your rope is stuck, you ain’t going nowhere. Here are my hard-won tips for getting your rope unstuck and—even better—preventing it from happening in the first place.
A climber and 12-year technical rescue expert shares surprising insights into why his state has so many climbing accidents and fatalities.
This eight-phase (12-month) training series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous one.
Honnold is famous for (among other things) cramming as much climbing as he can into each day. To do so, he's developed some efficiency tricks that the rest of us can imitate.
The joys of redpointing The Green Mile
There are two miracles in this week's whipper: 1) He survived. 2) He caught the fall on video.
We tested 23 pairs on boulder problems, sport climbs, and trad routes. These were the top performers.
“It goes, boys!” Zangerl, 36, blasted up the 3,300-foot Free Rider (VI 5.13a) on her first attempt, without a single fall.
Our annual tribute to the community members we've lost in the past year
At the start of each year, we compile this tribute to climbers who passed away the year prior. This year’s list includes 38 climbers, ranging in age from 21 to 96. Some died of natural causes, among family and friends. Others lost their lives in accidents involving free soloing, rappelling, avalanches, and falls on the world’s greatest alpine faces. One was killed fighting in Ukraine, while others were involved in accidents that could happen to anyone, climber or not.
Some were famous for their accomplishments, having established new routes in places like Leavenworth, Eldorado Canyon, El Potrero Chico, Greenland, the Georgian Caucasus, and Pakistan. They competed on the international sport climbing circuit, produced award-winning mountain films, revolutionized portaledge technology, and were young yet highly accomplished alpinists. One was an active Yosemite Search and Rescue member. Another founded the Access Fund.
Many of the climbers remembered here were fixtures in their local communities. They were guidebook authors and route developers, mountain guides and avalanche forecasters, gym owners and climbing shoe reps. They were neuropsychopharmacologists, musicians, lawyers, contractors, writers, photographers, computer programmers, inventors, digital nomads, fathers, a mother, and friends.
We want to thank everyone—friends, family, partners—who contributed obituaries this year. We also want to acknowledge that, despite our best efforts, this list is almost certainly incomplete. If there is a climber who should be added, please reach out to us at [email protected]. And for anyone experiencing a loss, we recommend visiting the American Alpine Club’s Climbing Grief Fund.
Creating this list is always both somber and reflective, reminding us of the dangers inherent in our sport, our rich history, and our strong community. Please be safe out there.